Chapter Seventeen: A Night by Lugu Lake

Liu Zichen truly suffered another round of torment. The road from Lijiang to Lugu Lake might be the most treacherous mountain road in the province, featuring the infamous “Eighteen Bends” winding up the mountainside. The driver, inspired by the scenery, began playing Li Na’s folk song “Eighteen Bends of the Mountain Road.” Before reaching the first bend, he even allowed everyone to get off and take in the view. Leaning over the mountaintop, the travelers gazed down at the white, serpentine ribbon of road curling into the distance, so dizzying it made their heads spin.

Most were there for the spectacle, but Liu Zichen couldn’t help feeling nauseous—she was so “frightened” she threw up! The other passengers looked at her askance; few reacted so strongly—after all, people like her usually didn’t go traveling.

Chen Tianyu asked quietly, “Zichen, are you alright? The roads throughout Yunnan are probably just as rough. Maybe we should visit fewer places…”

“Hmm…” Liu Zichen steadied herself, patting her chest as her breath gradually eased. “We only come out every few years—if we don’t see more places, it feels like a waste…” She hesitated.

Chen Tianyu laughed. “If we just rush from sight to sight, we’ll only waste time on these bumpy roads. In truth, the scenery everywhere is pretty similar. Why don’t we settle in one good place, immerse ourselves, and experience it deeply? Who knows, it might be even more rewarding.”

“That’s a paradox. How can you know where’s worth staying if you haven’t been there?” Liu Zichen shot him a glance before breaking into a smile. “Actually, if Lugu Lake is as beautiful as they say, I really don’t intend to keep wandering about. Let’s just hide away by the lake for the rest of our days!”

Chen Tianyu nodded in agreement. “Trust in the Mosuo fairy lake—it won’t disappoint you.”

Though he said this, he didn’t have high expectations; beauty is always relative, and one can tire of any view.

But Liu Zichen was visibly uplifted. Perhaps she placed more faith in the beauty of the world, and longed for it all the more!

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

The journey took three or four hours in all, leaving nearly everyone dizzy, dazed, and with ringing ears.

The coach finally stopped by a bridge. Even the driver’s usually booming voice seemed distant and faint: “Below the bridge is Lugu Lake. Everyone get up and clear your heads!”

Rubbing the sleep from their eyes, the travelers stepped out for a breath of fresh air. The midday sun was blinding, and everyone squinted, unaccustomed to the glare. What was most disappointing, though, was the view from the bridge—a stretch of dark, lifeless water with no luster in sight. Was this the legendary Lugu Lake?

As everyone murmured in confusion, the driver called out again: “Just a brief stop, we still have a ways to go!”

A wave of unease rippled through the group. Was it really that far? Had they boarded the wrong bus? Many pulled out their maps and saw then that Lugu Lake was vast, with many roads running along its edge. Resigned, everyone climbed back onto the coach, spirits dampened.

After another hour or so, the bus finally stopped, but still hadn’t reached the destination. A group of car and electric rickshaw drivers awaited by the roadside. Only then did they learn that to actually reach the lake, they’d need to switch to shared rides—the road was now too narrow for the coach. At first, some tried to haggle and pick the best cars, but once teams of four were filled, the drivers whisked them away. Those left behind could only stare helplessly. Was this really happening? Even money couldn’t get them in—they’d have to wait for the next round.

Liu Zichen, not feeling well, and Chen Tianyu arrived at the transfer point a step too late; no vehicles remained.

Remembering the driver’s suggestion to spend some time sightseeing at the lake, the pair could only laugh wryly.

What better example of “so near, yet so far”?

Fortunately, they kept their composure. Seeing how things stood, they gathered a few other stragglers—men and women who’d also missed the first batch—formed a new group, and made sure not to miss the next ride. By chance, a newlywed couple who’d been slow on their feet also joined them. After a brief introduction, the couple revealed they were from the eastern coast—Wuyunchu and Wen Lingling—on their honeymoon. As this was the first couple Liu Zichen and Chen Tianyu had met since entering the province, Liu Zichen felt especially warm toward them, and their conversation was lively and congenial.

So the waiting time passed without much discomfort. After about two more hours, more share rides returned, but so did another coachload of tourists. With demand outstripping supply, none dared hesitate and everyone jostled for a spot, unwilling to repeat the earlier delay.

Finally, Liu Zichen and Chen Tianyu, together with the newlyweds, squeezed into a battered car and rattled their way toward the lake.

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

When they finally reached the shores of Lugu Lake, the sun still hung a fathom above the horizon, though evening was drawing in.

A distant glance and a close inspection revealed worlds apart: under the setting sun, the lake’s rippling surface gleamed, white clouds and drifting shadows gliding across the waters, never pausing for an instant. The lake shifted from bright to dark, blue to green, evoking awe at nature’s handiwork. Distant mountains ringed the scene, and the lake was dotted with islands, large and small, scattered like stars, their interplay of light and shade captivating. Some islets resembled boats, and the waterways winding through them made the lake seem even broader and more intricate. Nestled among the folds of hills along the shore were clusters of dwellings—green-tiled wooden houses, smoke curling from chimneys—guesthouses, restaurants, plazas, activity centers of the scenic area. Along the banks, a few yellow and blue wooden boats bobbed in the water, likely used for lake tours. The water was crystal clear, the bottom visible. Occasionally, a seagull swooped by, adding a flash of vitality to the tranquil scene.

After settling their bags in the guesthouse, the two strolled idly along the lake, but dusk soon fell and the wind picked up. Liu Zichen, exhausted from the day’s journey, was feeling weak, so Chen Tianyu suggested they find somewhere to eat and rest early. Liu Zichen nodded in agreement, also feeling the fatigue.

“What would you like to eat?” Chen Tianyu asked.

“Uh, I passed a little street earlier—the smell of grilled meat was so enticing…” Liu Zichen mused. “Why don’t we get some barbecue?”

Chen Tianyu frowned, hesitating. “You’ve been out in the scorching sun all day—are you sure you can handle something so heavy?”

Liu Zichen pursed her lips. “It does sound a little daunting… but I can’t stop thinking about it. What should I do?” Even though they were still by the lakeside, the irresistible aroma of roasting meat drifted down from the hills and teased her senses.

“I didn’t know you were such a foodie. Alright, let’s go—what else can we do?”

Buoyed by anticipation, they followed the scent toward the food stalls. Suddenly Liu Zichen exclaimed, “Ha! I’ve got it—I’ll make an exception and have a beer tonight!”